
Well sadly, it's over.
Back home to... a chilly Auckland 17deg(63degF), feijoas & weetbix for breakfast, familiar plumbling :-))
China was an eye-opener..... the scale of population, the scale of urban spaces, the degree of 'westernisation' in the cities esp., the pandemonium of road traffic, the (in general) friendliness of the Chinese, the low cost of great food everywhere, the extent of 'security' measures in operation all over, the national unity & compassion generated by the Sichuan earthquake & the way that this is being stoked along by the Party for all it's worth....
Some possibly useful info for travellers:
TRAINS:
Excellent train system, very busy, so book well in advance (altho 10days is the max that advance bookings can be made). 'Soft Sleeper' class on Z-class express trains, is excellent, still cheaper than flying & you can save on an overnight accommodation. Even more attractive when you factor in the cost of airport transfers (taxi) & long check-in time requirement.
FLIGHTS:
Domestic flights in China are best booked in China & can be had at much discounted prices. Chinese Airports are modern & efficient. Flying is attractive for long hauls when a 3hr flight could replace a 20hr train ride.
ACCOMMODATION:
Best booked online for best room rates...and in some cases, better rooms! (Eg. From accommodation review sites.)
Comments on some of the places we stayed at:
Metropark Hotel, Kowloon - technically a little away from the action but (i)free hourly aircond shuttle minibuses to/from Mongkok & TST (ii)close to Mongkok (iii)swimming pool! HKD650 dble + taxes
Guangdong Victory Hotel, Guangzhou - located in the historic Shamian Island but a 10min walk away from nearest Metro. However, a 4-star hotel for 3-star price, nice staff & a superlative seafood restaurant across road. Swimming pool! RMB360 dble incl taxes etc.
Hq Hostel/Apartment, Xi'an - a new small establishment, run by a very hospitable (Kiwi & Chinese) couple. Modern apartment with 2 large dble brms, kitchen, lounge, dining, bathroom. RMB150/dble. Ideally suit families or 4 persons. Location reasonably central, nr Muslim district. Need to book well ahead.
Leo Hostel, Beijing - excellent location, 5~10min from Tian An Men Sq, in interesting old district, friendly staff, many good food options nearby. However, room quality v variable. RMB200 dble w bathrm. Similar priced hotels nearby.
Donghu Hotel, Shanghai - In the quiet French Concession district, 5~10mins from Metro stn, RMB360 dble incl taxes. Sm room but excellent, recently renovated, no complaints. Pool in adjacent bldg.
TAXI CABS:
In major cities, cabs all seem to be regulated with meters & print receipts for payment. Generally efficient, no hassle & cheap... only around RMB3~4/km... if you can stomach the heart-stopping rides! Shanghai taxis even have a driver-rating system which is on display on the dash. Avoid fixed-quote rides unless you have local advice.
METRO/UNDERGROUND:
Metro train subway systems in the bigger cities are excellent in all respects... but note that in Shanghai at least, it shuts down at around 11pm, as we were to find out one night after enjoying a drink whilst taking in the Bund lights! A wee reminder that you are in China.
INTERNET:
Free internet & wifi is generally avail. at hotels but, if you don't happen to have a laptop, internet cafes are not easy to find... except at Hostels, internet game parlours, city libraries, etc.
BUYER BEWARE:
Sad to say but... treat any purchasable product in China as potentially fake! (This from experience :-( )

CHINA - looking back remains copyright of the author spock15, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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The original 'French Concession' district is now an upmarket area containing consulates, restaurants, boutiques...
The Xintiandi district of remaining old 'shikumen' stone tenement houses has been restored, largely pedestrianised & now attracting foreign tourists & affluent locals.
And a Starbucks is here of course.
Self explanatory...
Janet tells me that, at one time, in the 80s there were only 200 cars in Shanghai... now there are over 300 cars per day exploding onto the road in Shanghai (this despite licence plate auction prices reaching RMB55,000/NZD11,000)!
Shanghai - cont. remains copyright of the author spock15, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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Shanghai - cont. 2 remains copyright of the author spock15, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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]]>Shanghai therefore has its share of ugly skyscrapers...(the giant Bottle-Opener thing behind)


Silly looking municipal buildings...
But Old Shanghai (like Guangzhou & Beijing) is where the Architectural treasures lie...
70~100yr old buildings erected by European & American trading powers, adapt well for Chinese style high density living...


SHANGHAI - Modern & Old remains copyright of the author spock15, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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]]>Army personnel are in pale green (don't try Taking the Mickey out of these guys... no sense of humour)...
A Revolutionary People's sculpture at the Mao Zedong Memorial Hall, Tian An Men Sq, Beijing... this guy is still looking stern having just jumped off his box to physically eject a (Chinese) visitor back over a barrier fence.
Police are in everywhere in Chinese cities... & crime is low(!). These boys in blue are the helpful guys, next to young Chinese who like to practise what little English they may know. This is a Police Station in Xi'an's Muslim quarter... where ethnic Chinese Muslims (mostly) cover their heads & offer interesting food.... oops, mentioned food again ;-)
Police at Big Goose Pagoda in Xi'an, another HUMUNGUS public space where folks gather for a sound, light & water fountain show every evening... although on our visit, all public entertainment had been banned for 3 days in memory of the Sichuan dead & even in Xi'an families were sleeping outdoors in such parks, fearing predicted earthquake aftershocks. 
These rather sad individuals are 'Traffic Assistants', whose job is to monitor pedestrians & bikes & scooters at major intersections. 4 per intersection with whistles & flags. You can put money on it that during the Olympic Games, uniformed (& non-uniformed) control-personnel of all all descriptions will be everywhere... manpower is not something that China is short of. Streets (in major cities) are constantly cleaned by orange-vested street-sweeper men/women with cycle-wagons & some tourist areas are washed down every night.
(Sorry chaps, no pics of ladies in uniform.)
CHINA - Men (& Women) in Uniform remains copyright of the author spock15, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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]]>The design commission was won by Swiss architects, Herzog & de Meuron, it accommodates 90,000, has a sliding roof, solar power generation & will cost circa USD400 million.
Security is tight (verging on paranoia) leading up to the Games & we couldn't get within 500m of it... which, on this particularly murky Beijing day, was disappointing. Beijing air quality in the 4 days that we were there, ranged from hazy & sunny... to windy & dusty (the famed Beijing dust storms).
I'll be looking forward to much footage in & around this iconic building, come August.
A close-up for the Architects....
BEIJING - 2008 Olympic Games remains copyright of the author spock15, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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]]>At a cheap-but-busy seafood restaurant in Shanghai, specialising in Hunan cuisine... no English menu here... we ordered blind & were surprised to be served with a metal 'basin' of still-boiling oil(!), with whole red chillies & peppercorns floating on top... and fillets of (fresh water) fish! Wow, delicious... the oil seems to retain flavour. A Hunan specialty I learn subsequently.
Postscript 1: A 2nd dish ordered was a bowl of small white dumpling balls with sesame paste filling, in sweet syrup... again, a very nice surprise... but the fish above was a hard act to follow.
Postcript 2: To outsiders, Hunan style cuisine often seems like just an excuse to eat quantities of whole red chillies & chilli oil!
SHANGHAI remains copyright of the author spock15, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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]]>This pic only begins to convey the vastness of this 40 hectares (400,000 sq m) of open space. Police presence is everywhere in China...reassuring for visitors... but I'm not sure if it means the same to the Chinese, esp in light of the tragic events of 1989 which forever will be associated with the name of this public space.
But the Real Biggie here in China lies just 90km outside Beijing..... The Great Wall of China!
(Our 70yr old(est.) guide took us on foot on a 3hr trek over an original, unrestored section/s of the wall - he was incredible, we were half knackered. This trip is called the 'Secret Wall' tour.)
BEIJING remains copyright of the author spock15, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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BEIJING - food (again) remains copyright of the author spock15, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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]]>Originally built in 7~10thC Tang Dynasty & enlarged by 14~17thC Ming Dynasty to it's present size. You can just see old rooftops on the inside.
4 sided, 13km in total length, 12m tall 12m wide at top.... biking takes 90mins, walking takes 2~3hrs to get around!
XI'AN - biking the city walls remains copyright of the author spock15, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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]]>The Bad News is that the English translations can be confusing..... although can be entertaining,...
eg. the best we've come across so far are.....
- The Flat Piece of Stone Burns the Fresh Juice Squid Tube
- Salamanders Unexploded Geese Post (any guesses???)
- Iced Glutinous Fice Wins (a refreshing cold drink resembling home brewed ginger beer)
- Mushroom Casserole is Brought Along (which we figured was a Mushroom casserole but with Broad, Long noodles :-) )
Our prize is presently awarded to this one...
- US Pole Despot Snake (yup, reptilian dish, this one)
And a close second...
- Ruthless Cook Abysmal Sea Lithopsporic Belly (I've NO idea!)
He he.
Food Menus in China remains copyright of the author spock15, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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]]>The Terracotta Buried Army of Qin Shihuang, who is regarded as the first Emperor of China, c.250BC.
Yup, it is impressive, regardless of high expectations.
[Sidebar:.... What wasn't so impressive was the 'tour' that we took which, of course, involved the inevitable channelling of the participants through factory shops...although the Silk Factory was in fact fascinating... ah no, we didn't buy any silk quilts. It does appear however that the Terracotta Army site would be difficult to get out to & around the multiple sites by oneself.]
FOOD in Xi'an, Shaanxi province, is somewhat challenging for the delicate Cantonese palate...
There appears to be a significant (chinese) Muslim population in Xi'an.
Grain, dumplings, baked cakes, sweets, ...noodles are perhaps more popular than rice.
Here's me looking stunned by a peppery casserole of flat noodles, mushrooms, tofu, vegetables & pigeon eggs... only RMB17
And Lily on a bus making a mess of a type of cake from the Muslim Quarter, wrapped in an almost impenetrable, powdery white, fine fibre. Ha ha...
XI'AN remains copyright of the author spock15, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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]]>Here we have...
1) Water Cress soup, flavoured with '100yr old' preserved egg diced up.
2) Steamed or poached/blanched Oysters, dressed with oil, ginger, garlic, spring onions (I don't believe I've had better Oysters) ;-)
3) A 1.1kg fresh water fish, selected live, steamed & dressed with oil. (If you fancy a bit more exotic than fish, you can choose from many shellfish, prawn, crabs, or.... frogs... all presented live for you.)
Around RMB130 for 2. (Poor shot of Lil sorry, but she's too busy anyway eating more than her share of Oysters.)
(Shaanxi food next, we're heading way up to Xi'an)...... Owen
Cantonese cuisine remains copyright of the author spock15, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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Xia Tao, Guangdong remains copyright of the author spock15, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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Guangzhou Metro system remains copyright of the author spock15, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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Scooter in Xi'an...all the scooters (& most bikes) here are electric powered...v silent, v cool.
Obligatory pic of overloaded bicycle remains copyright of the author spock15, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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Guangdong province - miscell. pics for the architects remains copyright of the author spock15, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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]]>Bustling along on crammed pavements of Hong Kong is a cakewalk compared with the immenseness of urban China.
2 experiences will not be forgotten by first-time visitors to urban China... (i)a taxi ride in a big Chinese city, where lane markings mean nothing, indicators are for pussies & where scooter drivers have No Fear... (ii)stepping casually onto a pedestrian crossing with 4 or 5 lanes of traffic approaching is fine, as long as you don't do anything sudden, then cars, buses, scooters & trucks etc will simply drive around you... just like the locals do!
Guangzhou's population is a vast 10 million or so & everything seems to be currently constantly under construction, although it does already boast a Metro underground system at least as good as HK's.
Old Guangzhou (Canton) architecture, both traditional Chinese shop-houses & post Opium War European 'concession area' edifices remain.
A couple of pics of Shamian Island, the mid 19thC English/French 'concession' area, now restored, tranquil, with canal-side promenade enjoyed by modern Cantonese & tourists.... oh I mean, that's Lil in quirky Hong Kong sunhat & new Versace Versus prescription sunglasses (that's another story)...... Owen

CHINA - Guangzhou city remains copyright of the author spock15, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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]]>Party leaders are constantly shown on the ground on compassionate visits within the stricken province. Now it's been Hu Jintao's turn to comfort women & young children.
Interestingly too...
- Sniffer dogs (a hundred of them) have been honoured with newspaper articles, some suffering the stress of constantly finding dead bodies, handlers say. Locals have been gratefully rationing their own food to help feed the dogs, they say.
- Tibetan monasteries in have reportedly donated a significant cash sum.
(Yeah yeah I know, this was published in a mainland Chinese newspaper.)
- The Party has announced 3 days of mourning, with a ban on public entertainment & 3mins silence at 2.28pm daily (when the quake struck). Here in Guangzhou, we observed all traffic coming to a standstill with horns blaring & everyone respectfully standing silent outdoors (or in front of TV screens) for 3mins.
We too will find a bank somewhere soon to donate a few RMBs.
SICHUAN, a week on... remains copyright of the author spock15, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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Hong Kong/China border crossing at Lo Wu/Shenzhen remains copyright of the author spock15, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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[PS. Hey nice to receive your comments guys... Rose L, Ichiban Chin, Derek & Maggs!...
Sorry, offline a couple of days, trouble finding internet cafes in China, unlike HK where computer game parlours are HKD7/hr if you can stand the ear-bleedingly high noise levels...... Owen]
This is the Chinese logo design that Starbucks stole remains copyright of the author spock15, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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HONG KONG remains copyright of the author spock15, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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]]>Here in HK, the Sth China Morning Post reports:
- 15,000 confirmed dead to date.
- HongKongers have donated HK$600 million.
- The Sichuan dead will be acknowledged at the August Olympic Games.
- Many Yangtze dams are damaged, but the downstream Three Gorges Dam is (officially said to be) unaffected.
- Talk of govt underfunding of rural education & shoddy construction of schools... remote regions don't seem to be subject to the 'Grade 8' earthquake engineering requirements elsewhere.
Geologically the Sichuan basin sits on the edge of the Tibetan plateau & there are 100s of irrigation dams & several hydro-electric sites. .....Owen
SICHUAN - Heroic Peoples Liberation Army to the rescue remains copyright of the author spock15, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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]]>The magnitude 7.8 earthquake that hit NW of the provincial capital of Chengdu, was followed by magnitude 6 aftershocks to date. They say that 10,000 have died (update: now over 50,000 dead), including students in several schools which were levelled.
A cell phone call to JJ (China tour guide extraordinaire ;-) who WAS heading there too) & the China Travel Service office in HK, have erased any hopes we had of continuing up to Sichuan province.
Visiting the Wolong Panda Research Centre, the sacred mountain of Emei Shan, the Giant Leshan Buddha, sampling the legendary Sichuan cuisine, Chengdu's charming architecture & teahouses.......
All that will have to wait until next time :-(
On to 'Plan B' then .....Owen
Sad Day for SICHUAN remains copyright of the author spock15, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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]]>160,000 people / sq km - that's around 400,000 / sq mile !!!
(In comparison, NYC Manhattan's population density is a mere 83,000 / sq mile.)
Here, swarming pedestrians intimidate motor vehicles.
In Mongkok you can buy anything, & at more like 'local' prices.
Mongkok is (one of the) quintessential parts of HK..... Owen
(Pic to come...forgot my digicam cable :-( )
MONGKOK - Hong Kong remains copyright of the author spock15, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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